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My Overland Trip To Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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Friday, 15 December 2006
   
After another full days travel and I arrive in Phnom Penh, capital of Cambodia - and a much larger city than I thought. Research now shows me there are over 1 million people living in Phnom Pehn. I was a little bit shocked, I was expecting something more like Vientiane in Laos (more like a country town), not a full bustling city.
 
I arrived just as night fell, an English ex-pat  that I met at one of the river crossings told me of a bar he and his friends drink at that I could meet them when I arrived. I ventured to find the bar.
 
(I also met a "Mayor" of one of the border provinces at the border crossings too, he was travelling to the capital on weekends to study and further his education)
 
Sharky's Bar, Phnom Pehn turned out to be relatively easy to find. I went in and looked around. It did not take long to recognise this was a popular ex-pat bar and I befriended a retired Australian airline pilot who had moved to Cambodia in his retirement. He gave me a run down of the city, prices to pay, costs on basics such as monthly rent, local wages, taxi rides, etc. He also pointed out a reasonable hotel just around the corner - just what I needed - a room and a shower. 
 
Cambodia Sign At Sharkies Bar

Sign at Sharky's Bar, Phnom Pehn Cambodia

The sign above - never a truer word said than in jest. A local story goes (confirmed by a friend in Thailand) that a local was kicked out of a popular bar in Phnom Penh. This fellow was connected and very angry about being removed from the club. He went away for an hour, came back and shot a rocket propelled grenade into the bar, destroying the bar and killing the owners wife.

In case you don't get the point to this story Cambodia is dangerous. It has the highest gun ownership per capita in the world. 

Here's a quick list of the conflict in Cambodia since the Vietnam War:

1970-1975    Cambodia part of the Vietnam War + Civil War
1975-1979    Khmer Rouge raids into Thailand + Killing Fields Genocide
1979            Vietnamese conquest
1979-1991    Resistance against Vietnamese occupation
1992-1998    Khmer Rouge guerilla warfare
1997            Civil War

Only 8 years since the last of the Khmer Rouge officially stopped aggression, that is 8 years since the civil war officially stopped. Cambodia has not known peace since before the Vietnam War. 

Along the highways were big billboards with advertising saying "We Don't Need Guns Anymore" and a picture of an M-16 with a red cross through it (I found it interesting to note that the rebels were assumed to have the American made and supplied M16 rifle)

Amazingly the people are not all gun toting psychos, though I believe the scars are there and the way the people act will not be 'normal' for a while yet. Aggression seems very close to the surface for Cambodians

So while in Phnom Penh, the capital, that is still rebuilding after Pol Pot (see the movie "The Killing Fields" for more info on Pol Pot)sent EVERYBODY out to the farms become rural peasants it is an interesting place to see, definitely barely touched by western culture and very few ex-pats and not too many tourists yet. Though the tourists are generally easy to avoid as they are drunk and stupid - best keep away lest they get shot for having a big mouth.

You actually get to see the country relatively untouched.

For a quiet afternoon look around the city you can get the slow (and boring) cyclo taxi driver to take you around.

I caught one cyclo once. The driver decided that I was a tourist and therfore liable to being ripped off. He took me the long way from the market to my hotel - about 45 minutes in total when I knew I was just a block or two away from the hotel. 45 minutes later I was getting sunburned and annoyed and he arrived at the hotel. I paid him for the 300 meter trip it should have been, and if he wanted to pedal all over the city then it was his problem - especially once I realised what he was doing I had to give directions to get back.

He was angry at my small payment - I was doing the "Thai smile" and being polite and nice and pointing the route he should have taken then I walked off, waving him goodbye and wishing him luck with his next tourist. 

Cambodia Cyclo Taxi

Cyclo Taxi - Slow

At the Phnom Penh markets I found the food section as I wanted to sample some of the culinary delights of the Khmer people. I ordered a bowl of spicy looking vegetable and chicken dish with several side dishes. As the Thais would say "Juet" or "Mi rot chat" - tasteless. Disappointed but willing to give it another go tomorrow, I got up to leave and pay.

I had noticed that a Khmer (Cambodian) guy had ordered the same as me and I noted how much he paid when he left. I was asked for twice the money for the same food. I pointed out the taxi drivers payment then we settled on me paying 50% more. Why? Because I am a rich foreigner who obviously deserves to be gouged. 

Cambodia Street Markets

The markets in Phnom Penh

While I was discussing the payment for my food a lady came in selling knives and chopping blades, I briefly considered the danger of pedalling weapons to this explosive tempered Cambodian people. Want to chop someone up but forgot your knife at home? No worries, buy a new one at the scene do your business and go on your day happily.
 
Sarcastic? Yes, but supported by later events. In truth the lady selling the knives was quiet nice.
 
Cambodia Knife Seller

 Forget Your Knife? Don't worry grab a new one

 
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